Jewellery designers are rediscovering their love of torque necklaces – the large, rigid neckpieces that serve as an antidote to the delicate chain
What is a torque? Sometimes spelt ‘torc’, these necklaces are defined as large, rigid neck rings, often made from gold. They have a long and colourful history, dating back to the Iron Age, and are most often associated with the Celtic cultures that swept through Europe at the time.
Traditionally, torques were worn by warriors and people of high status; in ancient art depicting Celtic mythology, gods and goddesses are often shown wearing the collars.
One jewellery designer who was inspired by torques for her latest collection is Laura Vann. ‘Their recurring presence in jewellery history proves their timeless appeal,’ she says.
Her sleek, minimalist designs are a modern take on the torque necklaces of old. ‘Combining sculptural modernity with timeless craftsmanship meant that we could create a piece that feels both contemporary and enduring,’ she says.
‘A fusion of minimalism and antique, I was partly inspired by the articulated setting from the works of [jewellery design] greats like René Boivin. However, I wanted to elaborate on this vintage, chunky setting by placing it against refined forms like intricate channel-set baguettes, a slim sterling silver wire and a distinctive hook fastening.’
Another sleek take on the trend is Pomellato’s ‘Together’ choker, updated in rose gold and 60 dazzling white diamonds. Meanwhile, Nada Ghazal’s take on the torque is similarly modernist, but elevated with a scattering of champagne diamonds.
Gucci, on the other hand, decided to go for a statement appeal with its chunky gold collars, inspired by the brand’s bamboo bag handles. And Acne went for a dose of irreverence with its silver torque-inspired chokers, featuring crab claw pendants.
Jessica McCormack (whose past works include a collaboration with the Haas Brothers, as well as engagement rings, featured in the bridal space of her London store) decided to make a different kind of statement with the torque necklace in her most recent collection. It features an incredible oval diamond as a statement centrepiece, and was modelled by Zoë Kravitz in the brand’s campaign.
‘I wanted to make a torque that was synonymous with our “Day Diamonds” concept, so, very wearable and comfortable but elevated at the same time,’ the designer explains. ‘I am often inspired by particular diamonds – when I come across a truly magnificent one, I immediately think of the torque, because it is the perfect design to really show off the quality of a stone.’
She agrees with Vann that there’s something about torques this season that is ‘inherently refined and perfectly suited to a minimalistic aesthetic, and, while that is popular at the moment, it is also timeless’.
Torques might date back thousands of years, but the bold modernism of current designs feels like a breath of fresh air.
What’s more, for the ancient Celts, torques symbolised good luck during conflict – a sentiment we can all appreciate as we get dressed in these difficult times.
